Ondine’s Daily Traveler Blog

The Daily Traveler: Antinori’s New Cantina in Tuscany (Conde Nast Traveler)

The dramatic flying spiral staircase from Antinori's new cantina in Chianti Pin it

At This Italian Winery, the Architecture’s as Amazing as the Chianti Antinori is one of the biggest names in Italian wine, but it’s not just the Chianti that’s drawing visitors to their hillside winery near the village of Bargino, 20 minutes outside Florence. The winemaker’s new state-of-the-art, cantilevered headquarters, Cantina Antinori, is luring architecture buffs who …

Where to Find (and Eat) White Truffles in Tuscany (CN Traveler)

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  The subterrean fungus sniffed out by pigs or dogs makes even the most seasoned foodies swoon. In Tuscany they grow plentifully in the countryside making October and November some of the best eating months here. All at a fraction of the price the kind of portion one could only dream of in New York …

My Favorite Rome Bars (Conde Nast Traveler)

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1 FRENI E FRIZIONI Romans take their aperitivo time deadly seriously, and this bar has all the ingredients for a perfect pre-dinner drink: a great setting alongside the Tiber in the heart of Trastevere, and an ample buffet of bar snacks that are included in the price of your drink, which, by the way, should be an Aperol Spritz—made …

My Favorite Rome Restaurants (Conde Nast Traveler)

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1SANTO PADRE This completely unpretentious trattoria is the secret canteen for Rome’s A-list, from soccer stars to politicians. Antipasti are waiting before you even sit down—heaping plates of beautifully ripe sliced tomatoes, light creamy meatballs, chunks of the freshest mozzarella—and waiters lead you through the tireless litany of classic Roman pasta dishes like cacio e pepe, carbonara, and amatriciana, …

My Favorite Venice Shops (Conde Nast Travler)

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1CHIARASTELLA CATTANA The work of local fabric and interior designer Cattana marries modern colors and botanical motifs with materials woven on traditional looms in the Veneto. The results are the kind of delicate tablecloths and duvet and pillow covers that you might originally buy as gifts but end up keeping for yourself. Located near Palazzo Grassi, …

My Favorite Venice Restaurants (Conde Nast Traveler)

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1VENISSA This destination restaurant on the little-known island of Mazzorbo in the Venetian lagoon has its own nineteenth-century walled vineyard, sustainable fruit and vegetable orchards, and a star female chef, Paola Budel, at the helm. The menu changes every three or four days, but highlights include the local delicacy, Alpago, a rare breed of lamb that …

My Favorite Tuscany Restaurants (Conde Nast Traveler)

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1LA PINETA I wish there were more coastal restaurants like La Pineta. Tucked into a seafront shack on the Mediterranean, an ex-fisherman turned cult chef Luciano Zazzeri has transformed his small restaurant into a culinary pilgrimage destination with a selection of fish that brings new meaning to the term boat-to-table (he uses seafood caught from his …

My Favorite Tuscany Shops (Conde Nast Traveler)

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1BUSATTI Forget Frette and Pratesi—Busatti is Tuscany’s own secret artisanal linens house, with gorgeous hand-loomed runners, tablecloths, and bedding collections that have been the work of a single family since 1842. Anghiari, where the shops and weavers are based, is also a revelation—a small and charming medieval town that feels peacefully out of the tourist storm …

Beauty Musts from a Road Warrior (Huffington Post)

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This blog was prompted by an ill fated wax experience in Buenos Aires. After asking for a spa recommendation from my hotel, I found myself inside a building that can only be described as a tenement and covered with a substance that I swear was just extremely hot dulce de leche. The woman going to …

Bordeaux for Bros (Conde Nast Traveler)

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France’s best new bars, spas, and shops aren’t only in Paris—they’re also popping up in the wine capital of Bordeaux, where hot spots cater to the modern manly sophisticate. 10 a.m. Spa Time The men of Bordeaux are fastidious groomers, and they go to the new, sleekly designed men’s spa 1 C-Men for haircuts and meticulous facials (61 …